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When Do Human Remains Become Art? Visiting The Paris Catacombs

When do human remains become art? I considered this question as I walked through the Paris Catacombs recently. It was the second time I had visited, so I knew what to expect, but the impact of so many bones, so many lives, was still strong.

Skulls in the Paris catacombs, Photo by JFPenn

The Paris Catacombs hold the remains of more than six million people, moved there to free up the overcrowded cemeteries above. Each section is labeled with the name of the cemetery that the bones were moved from.

Bone arch in the Paris Catacombs, Photo by JFPenn

While there are piles of bones in some places, most are concealed behind patterns of femurs and skulls, arranged in a form of macabre beauty down there in the dark.

Paris Catacombs Capuchin graveyard, Photo by JFPenn

The bones have even been turned into architecture in this pillar deep within the tunnels.

Paris catacombs pillar of bones, Photo by JFPenn

My previous trip inspired my thriller Crypt of Bone, which also features the Palermo and Sedlec Ossuaries. I wonder what this trip might inspire …

Stop! This is the Empire of the Dead, sign by entrance of the Paris Catacombs, Photo by JFPenn

Practicalities:

Book online in advance, although bookings don’t go live until a week or so before each date, so you need to be organized if you have a specific window to visit. I had a reminder in my calendar to book and still couldn’t get the exact slot I wanted.

The entrance is right next to the Denfert-Rochereau Metro. If you have time before and fancy some wonderful food, check out nearby Rue Daguerre which is a wonderful pedestrianized boulevard with lots of options and an outdoor market at weekends. It’s also close to Montparnasse Cemetery which is beautiful and peaceful.

Paris Catacombs pile of bones, Photo by JFPenn

This is not an accessible experience! There are spiral steps to go down, and then you walk through uneven corridors for a few kilometers, and then climb back up a spiral staircase to get out again. If you have mobility issues, or struggle with stairs, or don’t like underground tunnels, this is not for you! The exit is 21 Bis Av. René Coty, 75014 Paris, France. You can find it on Google Maps if you search for the Catacombs Shop.

Corridor leading to catacombs Paris Photo by JFPenn

Books that feature catacombs and ossuaries

 

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