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Walking The Camino Portuguese Coastal Route: Póvoa de Varzim to Esposende, Portugal

21km on a rainy day on beachside boardwalks and paths, then through an agricultural area and into the back streets of villages before reaching Esposende.

There are many churches along the Camino, but I particularly liked the many variations on this roadside shrine. Sometimes they were modern and colorful and, at other times, ancient stone. They all portray Mary and angels pulling sinners from a fiery boat on the ocean. This shrine was just outside my hotel.

Wayside shrine Photo by JFPenn

The path starts alongside the beach. There are piles of seaweed all packaged up, presumably for drying later.

Piles of seaweed on coast of Portugal Photo by JFPenn

I enjoyed walking in the rain along the boardwalks. It was quiet and there weren’t many people around. In these first few days, I could walk a long time without seeing other pilgrims as I tended to leave early, and most pilgrims start later on the route.

Boardwalk heading away from Povoa de Varzim Photo by JFPenn

The boardwalks take you above an agricultural area.

JFPenn on boardwalk through agricultural area

The green crops were a nice change from the ocean on a grey day.

The church at Apulia had toilets and a pilgrim’s stamp.

Waymarker at Apulia church Photo by JFPenn

I went off the Camino a little way to find coffee and passed another graveyard.

Graveyard Photo by JFPenn

I stopped at a cafe in Fao that offered a pilgrim menu for lunch at 9EUR. These types of cafes are common on the route and you can get a good meal for a cheap price.

Esposende was very welcoming to pilgrims!

Camino welcome to Esposende Photo by JFPenn

Continue the Camino journey: Esposende to Viana do Castelo, Portugal

Accommodation: I stayed at the Hotel Suave Mar right on the Camino. Great breakfast!

Facilities: Definitely not enough coffee today! I had to leave the Camino to find some at Apulia. There were toilets at the church and later, cafes, but I also went for a wee in the fields at one point.

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