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This Too Shall Pass. Thoughts From The Pilgrims’ Way With J.F. Penn

“Man’s real home is not a house, but the Road, and that life itself is a journey to be walked on foot.” Bruce Chatwin

In late October 2020, I walked the Pilgrims’ Way from Southwark Cathedral in London to Canterbury Cathedral in Kent, 182 km/113 miles on foot, alone, carrying my own gear… during a global pandemic.

A Roman road 2000 years ago, the route became popular for pilgrims after the martyrdom of St Thomas a Becket on 29 December 1170 at the hands of four knights of King Henry II. In literature, The Canterbury Tales by Geoffrey Chaucer follows a cast of colorful pilgrims on the way, and T. S. Eliot’s Murder in the Cathedral dramatically captures the archbishop’s bloody end.

In this episode, published on the 850^th anniversary of the martyrdom, I’ll share the personal side of my journey. I’ve written separately about the practical side of the pilgrimage with day by day photos here.

Fernweh. Longing for escape.
Why pilgrimage?
Transience and permanence. Questions I asked myself on the way.
“Stranger, pass by that which you do not love.”
Pushing the boundaries of your comfort zone and tackling fear
Give it time to settle. The lessons of pilgrimage may not be immediately obvious.
The next step

Canterbury Cathedral, England

Religious

The Cathedral and Metropolitical Church of Christ at Canterbury is the seat of the Archbishop, the leader of the Church of England, and is part of a World Heritage Area. It’s one of the most important churches in the United Kingdom for its historic and spiritual significance and is a must-visit if you enjoy ecclesiastical architecture.

You can find detailed information about the cathedral and visiting options at www.canterbury-cathedral.org. In this article, I include pictures from my visit in October 2020 as part of The Pilgrims’ Way.

Canterbury Cathedral before restoration work began. Photo licensed from BigStockPhoto

From Wikipedia: Founded in 597, the cathedral was completely rebuilt between 1070 and 1077. The east end was greatly enlarged at the beginning of the 12th century and largely rebuilt in the Gothic style following a fire in 1174, with significant eastward extensions to accommodate the flow of pilgrims visiting the shrine of Thomas Becket, the archbishop who was murdered in the cathedral in 1170. The Norman nave and transepts survived until the late 14th century when they were demolished to make way for the present structures.

Before the English Reformation the cathedral was part of a Benedictine monastic community known as Christ Church, Canterbury, as well as being the seat of the archbishop.

Lava Fields, Trolls, And The Hidden People. Iceland with Michael Ridpath

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From the ice of the glaciers to the black church near the lava fields and on to the steaming hot pools of the blue lagoon, Iceland is a country of stark natural beauty and interesting folklore.

In this interview, Michael Ridpath talks about the hidden people, the trolls, and the ghosts in the mist, as well as the landscape as a character, and why he keeps returning to the country for inspiration.

Michael Ridpath is a British author of crime and thriller novels. His Magnus crime thriller series is set in Iceland. And he has a website, WritingInIce.com, which features articles and pictures from his research travels.

Show notes

Why Iceland is so compelling to visit
Suggestions for the most beautiful places to visit in Iceland
The Hidden People, and other interesting folklore of the region
How long winters impact the Icelandic temperament
Things to see and do in Reykjavik
How to write evocative stories where the landscape is a character
Recommended books about or set in Iceland

You can find Michael Ridpath at MichaelRidpath.com

Fjords, Vikings And The Northern Lights. Norway With David Nikel

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From the stunning Northern Lights of Lofoten, to the fjords of the western coast, scenic train journeys across the mountains, Viking history, and the culture of the cities, David Nikel evokes a country that has much to explore. In this pandemic year, I’m certainly dreaming of kayaking the fjords!

David Nikel is a British writer specializing in all things Scandinavia. Since moving to Norway in 2011, he’s traveled the length and breadth of the country producing the first and second editions of The Moon Norway Guidebook. He also runs a successful website and podcast Life in Norway where he talks about everything from relocation and travel advice to stories from the Viking age.

Show Notes

Why fjords are such a feature of the Norwegian landscape
The Northern Lights at Lofoten
The different ways to explore Norway including by car and railway
Places to visit in cities like Oslo
On the New Nordic cuisine movement focused on simple, fresh ingredients
Locations for authentic Viking experiences
Aspects of Norwegian culture that are unique from the rest of Scandinavia
How Norse mythology fits into present-day life in Norway

You can find David Nikel at LifeInNorway.net

Southwark Cathedral, London

Places

Southwark Cathedral is the oldest Gothic church building in London, with over 1000 years of worship within its walls.

It was a convent in 606, a priory in 1106, a parish church in 1540, and a cathedral from 1905. Famous literary figures such as Shakespeare and Chaucer are associated with the church, and The Becket Way pilgrimage starts here on the way to Canterbury. The area has a rich cultural heritage, so if you’re in London, it’s definitely worth a visit. You can find more detail at cathedral.southwark.anglican.org

Southwark Cathedral Exterior, London. Photo by JFPenn

Always look up in a Gothic cathedral! Southwark’s vaulted nave is magnificent. When you enter the building, you can pay a few pounds extra for a photo permit. It’s definitely worth it.

Southwark Cathedral Nave, London. Photo by JFPenn

Life On The River. The Mississippi River Valley With Dean Klinkenberg

Unusual Places

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“The face of the water, in time, became a wonderful book … it was not a book to be read once and thrown aside, for it had a new story to tell every day.” Mark Twain, Life on the Mississippi

The Mississippi River runs through ten states and has brought life to countless generations, from the first Native Americans, through to the settlers, and into the modern, industrial age. There are great cities along the river, as well as remote wilderness, and a huge variation in landscape, ecology, and culture along the way.

In this interview, Dean Klinkenberg shares his passion for the Mississippi River Valley and gives his tips on where to go, what to see, and why the river continues to be a source of endless fascination and inspiration.

Dean Klinkenberg writes mysteries and travel-guide books about life along the Mississippi River in the USA.

Geography along the path of the Mississippi River
The changeable nature of rivers
Different spiritual meanings of the river
Cities and towns of interest along the Mississippi south to New Orleans
Areas of historical interest
Options for activities like hiking, canoeing, and kayaking on the river
Local specialties for food and drink
Recommended books about Mississippi

You can find Dean Klinkenberg at MississippiValleyTraveler.com

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